This is Streptocarpus Hannah. I acquired the plant from the plant stall at Walton. She has light pink flowers with a yellow and red striped throat.
I bought a famous Streptocarpus plant back from Tatton park last wednesday. It was the Streptocarpus Blue Harlequin, winner of best new plant 2010 at the recent RHS Chelsea flower show. It has blue and white colours on the same flower. Blue on top, white underneath..
We are going away on Friday for a week so there will be a few more posts before Snappys summer holiday. We are going to the Forest Of Dean camping and activity doing…

Hestercombe Garden,  Cheddon Fitzpaine in Somerset has that breeze in updrafts.   Both  grounds and gardens have had lottery funding and the flowerbeds, in particular, have undergone a mighty facelift.   Jekyll’s plantings have been restored from original plans found in the potting shed .   Myopia had forced her to turn from watercolours and embroidery to the broader palette of planting design.  A cursory glance at any of her planting plans or writing shows that she knew her plants intimately.  Add to that the influences of a sense of the right place for a plant and theories on colour and it is easy to understand why she has never gone out of fashion.

Great Plat

At Hestercombe  the first impact is made by the actual layout, conjuring to mind the ambition of a Borgia Pope in that it is both showy and a backdrop for having a party.    Below the Victorian terrace,  the garden sits proud of the Somerset landscape on stone bones with a wall some 3 metres high and these ramparts are hidden behind figs and roses.  Along the top, the South Walk has a pergola that stretches the width of the formal garden .  This pergola is roughly 83 metres long and has pillars of stone – columns alternating with rectangles to break the length  with massy timber joists on top.   Vines and honeysuckles have been trained up wires to clothe the structure.

Looking  back towards the house there is a large sunken garden – this is  the Great Plat, saved from being tarmaced over 30 years ago. The flowerbeds are triangular, stone-edged with an exuberant planting of bedding plants.  Bedding out is a form of gardening that is labour intensive involving taking out plants that have finished flowering and replacing them seasonally.  It is not fashionable but climate change may bring it back as the gardener struggles with water-logged soil.

rill planted with Sagittaria latifolia

The Great Plat is embraced by two grass walkways that border two long rills. These are long and narrow stretches of water, bounded by stone and heavily planted with  a monoculture of water-loving plants.  This is definitely an idea to snap up and take away, particularly copying  the restraint of only having one type of plant.  The water in the rills is fed by a fountain to the north and a cascade to the southern end.   If you aim to copy, make sure that your water is circulated by a pump.

Lutyens added an Orangery, a raised Dutch garden, flights of steps both linear and composed of circles, which look  particularly showy and then there is the pair of rills that frame either side of the upper reaches of the garden.  There are a plethora of level changes and stone ever present.  Without needing to go for the full Borgia effect, a few tricks can be learnt from all the hard landscaping at Hestercombe: –  break the mood in different parts of your garden in the way that paving materials are laid.  Even if you are using York paving,  consider  the change from formality with a regular size and laying pattern of stone to informality.  Altering the shapes from rectangular blocks to crazy paving will make a natural break.

Erigeron karvinskianus

As far as Hestercombe is concerned, what could be labelled as ostentatious is saved by sure planting – the stone walls do not get away with dominating because small, unflashy plants such as fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) have been allowed to seed throughout.

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Mare’stail or Horsetail is a common garden weed that flourishes on damp soil. Even the RHS is prone to Horsetail as the picture taken at Harlow Carr Gardens demonstrates. I look forward to seeing how they cope!

Why it is a Problem

• The plant reproduces by spores that are readily wind dispersed but most problems come from the rhizomes.
• Rhizomes are extensive both horizontally and vertically and may reach over 5 feet deep depending on substrate.
• Rhizomes break into small parts and reproduce quickly.
• Tubers are then produced at the nodes of the rhizomes.
• You can’t dig it out, although you may weaken the plants if you remove as much root as you can then hoe when you get above 1″ shoots.

Control and Eradication

• Glyphosate weed killer will have an effect and eventually kill the plant. Apply at least 3-4 times. Crush the leaves to create an entry point.
• Ammonium Sulphamate can kill and you need a brushwood killer that incorporates it like Rootout or Deep Root
• Emerging   stems can penetrate some woven polypropylene mulches.
• Horsetail can survive periods of flooding and burning and has survived millions of years.
• Black plastic sheeting has been found to kill or suppress rhizomes in the upper layers of soil.
• Control on arable land include soil drainage, liming, deep cultivation, improvements in soil texture and persistent cutting of vegetative and spore bearing shoots has some effect.
• In grass, regular mowing over a period of years may eliminate horsetail.
• Eventually the food supply in the root is exhausted. Let it get bigger than1-2″ and food begins to be stored in the roots again, and round and round you go ad infinitum or 60 million years and still counting.

Your Sweet Peas should now be full and robust flower. I hope you bunches of picked peas are scenting the house.

Sweet Pea Reminders

• Pick the flowers regularly, any you do not pick must be deadhead regularly. This encourages new flowers, leaving them on says to the plant ‘the job of producing seed has been done’ and the Sweet Pea shuts down flower production.
• Water your Sweet Peas with a regular and good soaking.
• Sweet Peas will continue to grow and flower at the top. Some growers lay the haulms down and train plants back up the next support.
• A foliar feed of half strength tomato fertilizer may help revive tired plants (at least it makes me think I am doing some thing.
• Did I mention picking and deadheading.

Perennial Sweet Peas

• I have several perennial sweet peas that have been a bit late flowering this year. They are all over six feet tall and still going.
• Lathyrus latifolius Red Pearl, White Pearl or Rosa Perle are favourite varieties.
• The RHS comments that perennial sweet peas can be used as ground cover if left to scramble unsupported.
• Everlasting Sweet Peas from Thompson Morgan

For the first time in weeks I’m not fretting about sitting in front of my computer rather than being in the garden. I have a pile of cats tightly curled up on a seat beside me in my studio at the back of the house, with the sound of gentle drizzle falling on the foliage of a rather large Giant Knotweed through open French doors that overlook the garden.

The word ‘knotweed’ usually sends a shudder through most gardeners as it is certainly a very pernicious plant indeed. Hailing from the Sakhalin Islands of northern Japan; Polygonum sachalinense, or giant knotweed, is closely related to P. cuspidatum (Japanese knotweed), and they are somewhat similar in appearance. The main difference is size; both the leaf size and overall plant size are much bigger in giant knotweed. Once established giant knotweed spreads by rhizomes and can be exceedingly invasive. Mine is growing in a fairly small area imprisoned behind a maximum security solid flint faced concrete block enclosure from which it cannot escape though I haven’t built security towers or put in an electric fence yet! Joking aside, I have to admit that I’m very fond of this herbaceous perennial as it grows to a height of 3.6m (12ft) plus each season with large leaves up to 38cm (15ins) long giving a very jungle-like feel to the garden. Visitors sometimes tell me that having it is illegal which is not the case; though I would certainly not recommend planting it. Luckily mine is well behaved and would only be removed if it managed to break out of its maximum security confinement.

Polygonum sachalinense (Giant Knotweed) imprisoned behind a thick concrete wall hidden behind a raised pool.

Polygonum cuspidatum (Japanese knotweed) left and Polygonum sachalinense, (Giant Knotweed) right.

There is also an attractive variegated form -Fallopia japonica ‘Variegata’ which is accentuated by dark green to reddish stems with mid-green leaves splashed with yellow and pink. Although it is far less invasive than the common form – to be safe I only grow it as a containerised plant where I can admire its beauty knowing that it isn’t going to take over the garden.

Fallopia japonica 'Variegata' (Variegated Knotweed)

For the record – It is not an offence to grow giant knotweed in your garden or on your land and there is no legal requirement (unless stated in a particular contract or arrangement) to control it. Giant knotweed is not listed in the Weeds Act and is therefore not ‘notifiable’, meaning there is no need to report its presence on your land. It is an offence though to dispose of cut stems or soil containing rhizomes for instance by taking it to the tip or by putting stems or rhizomes in your green waste bin and it is certainly an offence to plant it in the wild, so be warned!

Of course there are many members of the family Polygonaceae which are completely safe to grow in the garden and far too many to mention here, so I will only mention one, also commonly known as Knotweed – Persicaria microcephala ‘Red Dragon’ which  grows to about 90cm (3ft) tall in full sun to dappled shade position. The leaf colouring changes from deep maroon with a silvery-white V-shaped marking in spring, to darker green with a maroon V-shape in summer. Sprays of tiny creamy-white flowers appear in clusters above the foliage in summer much loved by bees. It is a non-running and non-invasive cultivar so totally safe to grow in the garden.

Persicaria microcephala 'Red Dragon'

Many plants are coming into full bloom and one that is flowering to perfection at the moment is a rather large Yucca glorious some 2.7m (9ft) tall with two enormous 1.2m (4ft) flower spikes, or as I have now noticed, one, as the weight of the flowers and rain caused the tallest spike to crash down taking out a large clump of Canna ‘Eisenhower’ as gravity brought it to the ground! When the rain stops I will have to try and prop it up again providing it doesn’t snap of in the process.

Yucca gloriosa flower spike laying on top of Canna 'Eisenhower' and Crocosmia 'Lucifer'

I love to walk around the garden in the rain as it is so lush and verdant with dripping leaves and the strong scent of Brugmansia in the air, in fact the whole garden is pervaded with the scent of multiple flowers and foliage in the rain, such a welcome change after so long a dry period – you can almost sense the garden sighing with relief as the gentle rains wash the dust out of the air reinvigorating all the plants.

Brugmansia 'Snowbank'

Even fairly drought tolerant shrubs like Aucuba japonica variegata the spotted Laurel has been under strain in recent weeks with floppy leaves, but know they back to normal and looking fabulous. Even plants in the Xerophytic (desert garden) are enjoying the summer rains after such a long desiccating period.

Only a few weeks ago many of the plants in the garden were several weeks late after such a hard winter, but now most have caught up and growing fast. Most traditional herbaceous borders are now going over, especially with all the heat and drought of late, but the tropicals are now powering up for a crescendo over the months to come. Here is to rain at night and warm days – well one can wish…

Alpine or border Campanulas come in many species and varieties.

Campanula lactiflora ‘Loddon Anna’ above was grown from seed distributed free to members by the RHS. It grows four feet tall and has many very attractive open bell shaped flowers. The flowers are arranged on a stem in a loose cone shape but with each of about 60 flower about an inch wide the effect is light and flowing. This species is commonly called the Milky bell flower and is a lilac colour.

Growing Campanula.

• Most Campanulas bloom in June and July, but some varieties continue all summer.
• Plant seeds or seedlings in May, though they can be sown in August and protected during the winter.
• Most Campanula plants tolerate full sun but like some moisture in the soil. The smaller varieties grow in walls and rockeries.
• Thompson Morgan have a fine seed collection.
• There is a white Campanula persicifolia alba

Hints and Tips about the Campanula Family

• Plants are generally perennial other than the annual Campanula macrostyla and ramosissima.
• The small hairbell or harebell are sometimes called the Bluebells of Scotland
• The scent is very mild during the day.
• There is a National Plant Collection at Burton Agnes Hall in Driffield.
• Smaller campanulas are ideal for rockeries, borders and pots

Dwarf Campanula by Graham Nichols
See also Campanula for the rockery here or Alpine campanulas.
Wikipedia lists 473 species.
Images of Campanula carpatica a compact campanula covered for a long season in summer with masses of blue, upright, bell flowers.

It has the look of a Tea Rose when its buds start to unfurl its yellow petals. I think last year it only had one Rose on it. This year it has a half dozen rose buds. The leaves are also a nice green colour with no black spot or yellowing leaves.
I have been looking at the garden birds today. A family of Goldfinches are now regular visitors to the nijer seed and have also been feeding on the ground. The Blue Tits have also found my new peanut feeder. The round cage seems to attract them, more than the yellow sunflower shaped one which had no where for the birds to land on.
The Great Yorkshire Show starts today. We will be travelling tomorrow to Harrogate to the Yorkshire Showground. I will charge my camera batteries later.
There is a flower tent at this years show. I will take lots of animal photos. I hope it does not rain too much.

A small name but a large, 400 strong, species. There are many Sedum or Stonecrop family of plants to grow.

Growing Tips

• Sedum is a succulent plant that stores water in it’s leaves.
• As with other succulents they are often cultivated with Cacti but are easy to grow in a garden.
• Sedum varieties can make good ground cover from rose-shaped growths in shades of green, yellow and pink.
• Sedum are not heavy feeders and do not need good soil. That is why the above plant is growing in my wall.
• Sedum thrive best in full sun or a good light.

The Sedum society has a seed distribution and cuttings service.  Read more on Sedum and Saxifrages or Sedum Ice Plants

Sedum Matting

• ‘A Sedum mat is a base layer of Polyester, Hessian, or porous polythene depending on the supplier, on which is laid the 2cm growing medium, on to which is sprinkled sedum cuttings. These grow into the substrate to maturity.’ according to the Green Roofs Organisation.
• A Sedum mat typically adapts well to poor soil and exposed sites making it an to grass.
• Enviromat is also especially suited to the UK climate and incorporates all the growing medium that the sedum plants need.
• Sedum can be used on a soil-less surfaces for example a sedum roof or sedum carpet.

A National Plant Collection of Sedum is held by Ray Stephenson, Choppington, Northumberland. He also wrote the authoritative text  ‘Sedum Cultivated Stonecrops’.

More images of Sedum are available on Google but it is fun to grow and photograph your own plants.

The heat goes on – at least here in Norfolk and the exotic plants just love it, especially the Begonias! For some years I have had a passion for these wondrous plants from the hardy species like Begonia grandis evansiana to those that are decidedly tender. I have a display of these wonderful beasts just inside the entrance to the garden, many nestling in the shade of a Windmill Palm Trachycarpus fortune as most need protection from the hard glare of the midday sun at this time of year when it is at its highest.

Most of my collection are called cane-type begonias, which are distinguished from the others by their bamboo-like stems.  Most are free blooming and have large clusters of flowers of which many are ever blooming if temperatures are high enough.  Unfortunately, being tropical (mostly from Brazil) in nature I grow them in large pots which are brought out into the garden when all fear of frost has past,  usually around the third week of May here at the Exotic Garden.

One in particular that I find devilishly eye catching is the highly vaunted Begonia luxurians, a masterpiece of nature hailing from the forests of Brazil in South America.  I think this is one of the most beautiful Begonias that can be grown. It is particularly unique in its genus as it doesn’t particularly look like a begonia! Its hand-like leaves are up to 30cm (1ft) across and composed of 10-20 dark green leaflets that are fleshy and sometimes rippled and arranged in an almost complete circle at the top of each petiole (leaf stalk) and curving down giving a really dramatic weeping effect to the whole plant. The leaves are produced alternately up the stem which bends slightly at each leaf axil (where the leaf stalk is attached to the stem) resulting in an intriguing zigzag appearance. It certainly deserves its name as the foliage does look luxuriant making a great specimen.  At this time of year it is topped with racemes of dainty small creamy-white flowers. My multi-stemmed plant is about 1.5m (5ft) tall so the flowers can be easily admired at eye level, though in the wild it can grow to a staggering 3m (10ft) tall!

I have a rather large Begonia corallina at around 2.3m (7ft) tall in its container which is one of the easiest of the cane-type begonia species and fairly common though no less attractive for that. It has angel-wing like leaves 20cm (8ins) or more long, in a dark green shade with occasional spotting. The dark brown woody stems can become quite thick with age, up to 2cm (1ins) in diameter. It does have a tendency to drop its leaves giving a somewhat open appearance especially during the winter months. Since the plant can become rather large, it needs to have its individual canes staked if the flower clusters become too heavy as it blooms profusely with large cluster of red flowers, sometimes up to 30cm (1ft) or more across. Old canes that have gone barren (lost their leaves) can be pruned to two leaf joints above the ground in early spring.

Another large one is Begonia ‘Thurstonii’, a rather striking shrubby cane begonia which grows to around 2m (6ft) tall with striking shiny dark olive-green leaves with red veins and a red underside. Its overall glossiness makes it stand out from the other begonias, especially with its’ bunches of pink flowers at this time of year.

I have always had a soft spot for Begonia ‘Burle Marx’ which was much admired by the late Christopher Lloyd. This shrubby begonia grows to around 75cm (2 1/2 ft) tall, with densely packed, puckered, bronzy-green leaves and sprays of small white flowers on long stems. Finally but not least, Begonia maculata ‘Wightii’ also known as Spotted Begonia and Wight’s Spotted Begonia is out of this world looking as though it has been made in some fantasy land! This Begonia is new to me this year and is an extraordinary shrubby cane-type begonia with large glossy dark green leaves up to 30cm (1ft) long that look like bat or angel wings with pronounced silver dots. The white flowers are quite showy, appearing from late winter into the spring, arising from the canes among the leaves. My plant is about 30cm (1ft) tall though it will become a medium sized begonia that should reach 60-90cms (2-3ft) or maybe taller if it likes its location!

Although most books say Begonias shouldn’t be overwintered at less than 15C (59F), like my Bromeliads, I find they cope with a minimum low of 5C (41F) if kept pretty much bone dry during the winter months, though this does cause some leaf drop, but once warmer spring weather arrives they soon come back into leaf. I also find that the use of a large fan to blow the air around the greenhouse eliminates any mildew forming on the foliage, a scourge of our damp British winters. They all prefer a potting mix that is at least fifty percent loam based with added Osmocote slow release fertilizer plus the occasional sprinkling of blood fish and bone for good measure. The cane types do have a tendency to become rather floppy especially when in flower, hence the judicious use of bamboo canes for support is often essential on the taller types as mentioned earlier. They mostly prefer a dappled shade position that does not receive any midday sun as this will scorch the leaves. Other than that, most begonias enjoy being outside for the summer months from late May well into October. So – why not have a go at growing some yourself or come and admire them growing here at the Exotic Garden…

Twilight at the Exotic Garden

Bracken invades with a vast network of starch-rich rhizomes.  The stunning fact is that one acre of the plant will yield 40 tonnes in rhizome weight.  Getting rid of it is not easy .  Try cutting  two or three times a year over several years.  Better still plough the ground up and let pigs loose to eat the roots.  Bracken cut before June is rich in potash and good for the compost heap.

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